11.2. Fabric, thread and needle table
As a general rule, fine threads and needles are used to sew thin fabrics, thicker threads and needles are used for heav-
ier fabrics. Always test the thread and needle thickness on a scrap of the fabric you intend to use. Use the same thread
for needle and bobbin. If you sew stretch stitches on fine fabrics or synthetics, use a needle with a blue shaft (available
from specialist retailers). These prevent stitches from being missed.
Very lightweight
Chiffon, georgette, fine lace, organza, net, tulle
fabrics
Lightweight fabrics
Batiste, voile, nylon, satin, lightweight linen
Silk, crêpe de Chine, sheer crêpe
Jersey, swimwear, stockinette
Suede
Medium fabrics
Flannel, velours, velvet, muslin, poplin, linen, wool, felt,
towelling, gaberdine
Knitted fabrics, stretch fabrics, jersey
Leather, vinyl, suede
Heavy fabrics
Denim, coating
Jersey
Wool, tweed
Very heavy fabrics
Canvas, sailcloth, upholstery fabrics
11.3. Useful sewing tips
11.3.1.
Sewing thin and lightweight fabrics
Lightweight and thin fabrics can ride up in the machine as these materials are not always fed through the machine
evenly.
When sewing these kinds of fabrics, lay some embroidery backing (available from specialist shops) or a piece of tis-
sue paper under the material. This prevents irregular feeding.
11.3.2.
Sewing elasticated fabrics
It can be easier to work with elastic materials if you sew the pieces of material together first with basting cotton or tack-
ing yarn and then sew them together with small stitches without stretching the material.
Good results can also be obtained if you use special threads for sewing knitwear and stretch stitches.
144
Fabric type
Thread
Needle
Synthetics, silk
Cotton
Silk, synthetics
Synthetics
Cotton
(Leather nee-
dle or jeans
needle)
–
–
Cotton, silk
Synthetics
Cotton
(Leather nee-
dle or jeans
needle)
Cotton
Synthetics
Silk
–
Cotton